You'll find airfare deals on cheap flights to Izmir at FlyForLess. Much of what might hold a non-native's interest is located in convenient little clusters at various points around Izmir. Unfortunately, it's all too obvious in bigger cities like Izmir that Turks are lousy at giving directions, so I suggest a taxi. Otherwise, most of your sightseeing and shopping can be done on foot in and around Konak, which includes the museums and main-square attractions, as well as the bazaar, also known as Kemeralti. From Konak, Alsancak is reachable on foot along the scenic waterfront, but for those unable or unwilling to walk, there are municipal buses running regularly from the major bus hub at Konak (just in front of the Atatürk Cultural Center and on the street below the Archaeological Museum). If you're staying in one of the major hotels around Cumhuriyet Meydani, you're just about dead center between Konak and Alsancak. The historic Jewish quarter, today called Asansör for the 19th-century elevator that provides access to the cliff-top residential area, is just south of Konak and also reachable by bus. The bus fare is 1.50YTL (about $1.10).

Public ferries crisscross Izmir's bay between Konak and the busy residential shopping area of Karsiyaka, between Pasaport (at Cumhuriyet Meydani) and KarsIyaka, and between Pasaport and Alsancak. Fares on the ferry are about 1.35YTL ($1) each way. Purchase your jeton at the ticket window prior to boarding, and double-check the destination of the boat, particularly if you're returning to Alsancak from Karsiyaka; it's a relatively long walk from Konak Square to Alsancak if you get on the wrong boat.

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Konak, named for the Ottoman government mansion (Hükümet Konagi) located nearby, is where you'll find all the interesting stuff: a bustling seafront park, the little Konak Camii, and the Clock Tower (Saat Kulesi), the symbol of Izmir.

Just behind the tourist information booth at Konak Meydani (the main square) is Anafartalar Caddesi; judging by the magnetic stream of people pouring in, this must be the entrance to the shopping district, also known as Kemeralti. Winding through the oldest section of town are the narrow back streets of Izmir, where an unexpected 17th-century mosque, several synagogues, and a bedesten (privately owned marketplace) cohabit an area long overtaken by inexpensive stores selling inexpensive gold chains.